A Secret History of Brands Read online

  A Secret History of Brands

  A Secret History of Brands

  The Dark and Twisted Beginnings of the Brand Names We Know and Love

  Matt MacNabb

  First published in Great Britain in 2017 by

  Pen & Sword History

  an imprint of

  Pen & Sword Books Ltd

  47 Church Street

  Barnsley

  South Yorkshire

  S70 2AS

  Copyright © Matt MacNabb, 2017

  ISBN 978 1 47389 417 4

  eISBN 978 1 47389 419 8

  Mobi ISBN 978 1 47389 418 1

  The right of Matt MacNabb to be identified as Author of this work has been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright,

  Designs and Patents Act 1988.

  A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

  All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission from the Publisher in writing.

  Pen & Sword Books Ltd incorporates the Imprints of Pen & Sword Books

  Archaeology, Atlas, Aviation, Battleground, Discovery, Family History, History,

  Maritime, Military, Naval, Politics, Railways, Select, Transport, True Crime,

  Fiction, Frontline Books, Leo Cooper, Praetorian Press, Seaforth Publishing,

  Wharncliffe and White Owl.

  For a complete list of Pen & Sword titles please contact

  PEN & SWORD BOOKS LIMITED

  47 Church Street, Barnsley, South Yorkshire, S70 2AS, England

  E-mail: [email protected]

  Website: www.pen-and-sword.co.uk

  Contents

  List of Illustrations

  Acknowledgements

  Introduction

  Chapter One Coca-Cola: The Drug-Addled Drink

  Chapter Two Hugo Boss: Nazi Fashion

  Chapter Three Henry Ford: The Jewish Conspiracy

  Chapter Four Adidas & Puma: Cogs in the Nazi War Machine

  Chapter Five Chanel: Hitler’s Seductive Spy

  Chapter Six Bayer: Heroin and Genocide

  Chapter Seven Kellogg’s: Corn Flakes and the War On Sex

  Chapter Eight Winchester: Guns to Ghosts

  Chapter Nine Bakelite: Killer Plastic

  Conclusion

  Notes

  List of Illustrations

  1. John Sith Pemberton portrait (Author unknown, Source: Creative Commons).

  2. Vintage Coca-Cola advertisement.

  3. Vintage Coca-Cola advertisement (c. 1911).

  4. Hugo Boss company newspaper advertisement (date unknown).

  5. Pemberton’s French Wine Coca newspaper advertisement.

  6. Henry Ford Portrait (c. 1919, Hartsook, photographer. Source: Library of Congress).

  7. Henry Ford with the ten millionth Model T (Source: Library of Congress).

  8. The Dearborn Independent newspaper (1920).

  9. ‘Jesse Owens at start of record breaking 200 meter race’ (1936, Source: Library of Congress).

  10. Hugo F. Boss’s Nazi membership (c. 1931).

  11. The Dassler shoe factory (Source: Library of Congress).

  12. Coco Chanel portrait (c. 1910, Source: Library of Congress).

  13. ‘Der Führer in Paris’ Adolf Hitler visiting occupied Paris, France (c. 1940, Source: The National Archives).

  14. Ford Factory assembly line (c. 1913, Source: Library of Congress).

  15. Bayer heroin newspaper advertisement (c. 1901).

  16. Bayer & Co. bottle of heroin.

  17. Entrance to the German death camp Auschwitz, in Poland (Logaritmo, Photographer, Source: Creative Commons).

  18. John Harvey Kellogg portrait (c. 1914, Source: Library of Congress).

  19. Vintage Kellogg’s cereal advertisement (c. 1915, Source: Library of Congress).

  20. Vintage Kellogg’s cereal advertisement (c. 1919, Source: Library of Congress).

  21. Workers outside of the Winchester Repeating Arms Company (c. 1897, Source: Library of Congress).

  22. The Winchester mansion (c. 1980, HABS, photographer, Source: Library of Congress).

  23. Sarah Winchester’s bedroom (c. 1980, HABS, photographer, Source: Library of Congress).

  24. The Winchester mansion living room fireplace (c. 1980, HABS, photographer, Source: Library of Congress).

  25. Leo Baekeland portrait (c. 1906, Source: Library of Congress).

  26. Bakelite laboratory in Younkers, NY (c. 1935, Source: Bakelite Review/ Library of Congress).

  27. Vintage Bakelite magazine advertisement (Source: Library of Congress).

  28. Bakelite jewellery colours (c. 1924, Source: Gifts to Treasure, Embed Art Company catalogue).

  Acknowledgements

  I would first and foremost like to thank my lovely wife Holly for her patience and support, along with our four children Sebastian, Anastasia, Alexandre and Callidora. You’re the light of my life.

  Thank you to Claire Hopkins and everyone at Pen and Sword Books for believing in me and this project. Also a special thanks to Karyn Burnham for her fantastic editorial assistance.

  Special thanks also to author MaryJo Ignoffo and finally Phillipp Mimkes of the CBG Network.

  Introduction

  A brand is often developed around a name, logo, distinct packaging and/or a dedicated mascot. Brand name products are such a part of our daily life and identity that it is difficult to imagine a world where they don’t exist. There was a time, not all that long ago, when we weren’t defined by the type of car we drove or the brand of clothing or shoes on our bodies. Today, our culture thrives on brands in every facet of our life. These brands have all emerged into the post-Industrial Revolution marketplace and have become an enduring part of our daily lives over the past century. You might think of Bayer when you have a headache, Coca-Cola when you want a drink and perhaps Ford when you’re car shopping. These brands are taken for granted today, but they all started somewhere and for many of the brands you know and love, their roots are firmly planted in dark, twisted, and sometimes violent, origins. These aren’t the stories that you’ll read on the carefully crafted and orchestrated modern corporate histories of companies like Chanel or Adidas. These are the true stories of the brands you know and the often very flawed individuals who created them.

  The landscape of both life and industry were very different prior to the events of the Industrial Revolution. The inception of brand names and corporations is relatively new; before the development of mass manufacturing and industrialisation one had to rely on self-production or regionally produced products. Society, in both America and Europe, was comprised primarily of rural and agrarian culture. There were some cities, like London, that had grown and expanded as a capital city, but most of the towns and villages were self-sustaining. If you lived in a village you would have your own on-site bakers, butchers and blacksmiths, and you would often have to hunt for, or grow, most of your own food. If you lived in a rural setting and wanted clothing, food or other goods, there were no stores to visit. If you were lucky you had in-demand goods to barter and trade for other goods or services, but this process was spotty and largely unorganised. The more common occurrence was malnourishment and even starvation when things got difficult. There were no food banks or charities. If there was a bad crop or other pressingly negative issues in your region, any neighbours you had were likely suffering to a similar degree
.

  This way of living carried over to the Americas in the seventeenth century, when the thirteen colonies that would eventually become the United States were settled. The colonies would self-govern, even though there was still the British monarchy to answer to back at home across the ocean. The local landowners would vote for a provincial government and governor to oversee the goings-on there. When you came to the ‘new world’ it was, literally, starting over. There were no buildings and no cities or roads. There was only wilderness and the Native Americans who already resided there.

  This way of life would soon change, as the Industrial Revolution began to take shape in England. There were certain factors that were necessary for one central area to be the focal point of the coming industrialisation; the demands of the eighteenth and nineteenth century included vital, and bountiful, naturally occurring deposits of commodities like coal and iron ore. Other materials were needed, but if a country had a vast colonisation system in place around the world, then various raw materials could be easily mined and imported. The best option in the world at the time and that was Britain. It was the natural birthplace of big industry. In eighteenth-century Britain, the textile and iron industries were transformed in a major way.

  Cottage industry used to be the cornerstone of the textile market. In order to get the best version of ‘mass’ production in those days the work would be distributed to workers to complete in their homes on their own time. This disorganised and unsupervised way of doing things left the industry plagued with overdue deadlines and inconsistent returns. Still, it was the best and most efficient way of doing things until the age of mechanisation was born. It was in 1764 that weaver and inventor James Hargreaves developed one of the first methods for spinning spools of yarn, called the ‘spinning jenny’. This invention was vital in response to the ‘flying shuttle’, which was introduced by John Kay in 1733. The flying shuttle would allow cloth to be woven on a wider scale. The device could even be attached to a machine and mechanised, a development that was met with much resistance from weavers at the time. The flying shuttle would double the productivity, so the demand for yarn grew. The spinning jenny (‘jenny’ was slang for engine) would allow the worker to manipulate several spools at once, for a far greater output. There were over 20,000 spinning jenny machines in use around England by the time of Kay’s death in 1778. Around the same time, the inventor Samuel Crompton was developing a ‘mule-jenny’, which was later dubbed the ‘spinning mule’. This device built upon the previous inventions and would spin cotton and other fibres into a strong, thin yarn. There were over fifty million mule spindles in use in Lancashire alone! These all led to the invention by Edmund Cartwright of the ‘power loom’ in the 1780s.

  It was Englishman Abraham Darby that would revolutionise the iron industry. The industry had to rely solely on charcoal to run the furnaces necessary to separate the iron from iron ore. The issue with this is that the volume of product that can be produced is completely dependent on the rate of tree growth, as wood is the essential component of charcoal. Rapid deforestation was beginning to catch-up with the industry and it was in need of a new and more sustainable fuel source. Darby developed a system that utilised coke as the primary component. Coke is a fuel source that is made from coal that undergoes a process of synthesis, rather than occurring naturally. In 1709, Darby’s coke-fired blast furnace was introduced as a method for casting iron. A key component of the Industrial Revolution was the mass availability and cheaper pricing of iron, both of which were possible thanks largely to Darby’s innovation.

  The modernisation of the textile and iron industries were major factors in the Industrial Revolution, but it was the inception of the steam engine that would really tip the scales. Englishman Thomas Newcomen was an ironmonger by trade. He introduced the atmospheric engine, the world’s first commercial steam engine, in 1712. The engine was first developed to pump the water out of mines, as the flooding of coal and tin mines was a major safety and productivity concern. The steam engine would eventually be adapted to power major machinery, trains and ships. James Watt improved upon the steam engine design with a ten-horsepower continuous rotary engine in 1781.

  It was the railways that would push the world forward into mass industrialisation. The first glimpses of a railway network came with the advent of the steam locomotive in 1803. British inventor and mechanical engineer Richard Trevithick was the brilliant mind behind the construction and inception of the world’s first railway steam locomotive. The young engineer had a knack for identifying and solving problems that other more educated engineers had difficulty with. Trevithick was a natural in his field and his innovations would change the way we transport both people and goods. Prior to the steam locomotive, the transportation of items utilising horse and carriage, was quite unreliable, vulnerable and slow. Trevithick’s engine was half the cost of Watt’s model, so it quickly dominated the market, rendering the out-dated Watt type obsolete.

  The first transcontinental railroad was constructed in America between 1863 and 1869. The final spike, dubbed the golden spike, was driven into the railroad at Promontory Point, Utah, on 10 May 1869, by Central Pacific Railroad Company head Leland Stanford. The railroad united the country for the first time and made transport safer across the wild plains of the Midwest and created the ability to quickly ship products across the vast divide of the United States in a timely manner.

  The Birth of the Brand Name

  Brand name products weren’t a common sight in the pre-industrialised world, but they did exist. The practice of livestock branding, for example, has been utilised since ancient times. This was more for the practicality of distinguishing your livestock from others rather than any boasting of a particular quality of product. The term brand is derived from the Scandinavian Old Norse language word ‘brandr’, which means ‘burn’. In ancient times the practice was that a creator would burn their symbol or mark into their products, hence the term ‘brand’.

  The idea of signing or branding your work if you were an artist or a craftsman dates back as early as the first century. A little known glass blower by the name Ennion was not only the first known glass blower in history, but was also the first known brand. Ennion didn’t just sign his pieces, he would put an entire message on the bottom. His work would read ‘Ennion epoiese’, which was Greek for ‘Ennion made me’. The idea of a lasting brand would later begin to emerge. The Belgian beer company Stella Artois, for example, has been using a similar logo and their brand name since their inception in 1366. There are a handful of brands that emerged over the centuries, but few that still exist today. The majority of brands that we know today were founded in the nineteenth or twentieth centuries.

  When the concept of the mass-manufactured brands emerged during the Industrial Revolution, companies were finally able to transport their products long distances and engage in new markets. The major challenge that came with this development was for people to trust and try-out a non-local product. Prior to this time, most products were locally produced and the consumers often knew the people that made it. The concept of trusting in your local area and the pride that can come with even the smallest village or town is still prevalent today.

  The marketplace also changed with the birth of the mail order catalogue. There were times throughout history that catalogues were used, primarily by book publishers to notify buyers of their various titles, but the catalogue industry really boomed in the nineteenth century. The first mail-order catalogue in the United States was sent out by Tiffany in 1845. Montgomery Ward soon followed suit in 1872, and Sears in 1888. The ability to handpick products from watches, clothing and sporting goods to automobiles and even homes became an intoxicating mainstay in American culture. The ability to ship products around the nation made it easy for regional companies to expand. The stores would often become the brand, like in the case of the Sears home. Sears, Roebuck and Company sold upwards of 70,000 of their mail order catalogue homes between 1908 and 1940.

  It began
with the catalogue, but the expansion of the brand name continued to grow, as the regional product began to dissolve and the national and even international product marketplace emerged. The marketplace was flooded with various products that often made outrageous claims, some that were founded and many that weren’t. If your product was reputable it became necessary to distinguish yourself from the herd. A company making a good quality product needed to earn the trust of the regional consumer and they began to build that trust through brand names and advertising. The comfort of knowing that, as a consumer, every time you pick up a Coca-Cola you get the exact same quality of product is what the major corporations of today were built upon. These corporations are often seen now as cold, faceless and inhuman entities, but many of them began as individuals struggling to carve out a place for their product in the competitive marketplace.

  In today’s world all major corporations have mission statements and ‘corporate culture’ that help to ensure a certain level of behaviour within the company for all interactions internal and external. There are checks and balances that should ideally keep scandal and disgrace at a minimum and far away from the cherished brand names that are the cornerstone of their business. Historically however, there were no guidelines to keep Bayer away from getting into bed with the Nazis, or to keep Henry Ford from publishing and distributing radical anti-Semitic materials. Corporations like to disavow these dark pasts today, but the study of history demands examination and understanding of truth, even when it becomes inconvenient. This book is intended to enlighten and educate about often hidden parts of brand histories that are often overlooked, and is in no way intended to reflect upon or undermine the far more stable culture that many of these companies and their employees have created today.